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Curly hair
is unique. In terms of structure, it contains a higher degree of disulfide
bridges than straight or wavy hair. Research indicates that hair is more
susceptible to breakage as the individual fibers overlap or wrap around the
teeth of either a comb or a brush when styling. Given the nature of curly hair,
it is more prone to damage and breakage. When hair fibers are damaged, the
cuticle lifts and the hair becomes dry, brittle, dull, and difficult to manage.
It also tangles easily.
SCIENCE
FSS Rice
Curl Complex PF is
designed to deliver protection and optimize the integrity of the hair while
enhancing curl retention. It contains a unique blend of rice amino acids,
stearoyl CoA-desaturase (SCD-1), tomato bioferment and keratin amino acids. All
of which work synergistically to improve and protect the hair. The rice amino
acids help condition and hydrate the hair to enhance its integrity and reduce
moisture loss. Rice is a staple grain in many cultures and is considered to be
highly nutritious. Including rice ingredients in cosmetic applications garners
exceptional marketing appeal amongst consumers. Flexibility is an important
characteristic for curly hair. SCD-1 is an enzyme that converts saturated fatty
acids on the hair to unsaturated fatty acids. This conversion changes the
melting point of the fatty acids on the hair to improve the hair’s flexibility
and enhance curl retention. SCD-1 will also help improve texture.
Our hair
consists of 3 different layers, the cuticle, cortex and medulla. The cuticle is
the outermost layer. It is similar to shingles on a roof that overlap each
other to both protect and water proof the hair. The next layer, the cortex
contains keratin filaments wrapped in helical structures similar to telephone
cords that are then intertwined into bundles. The cortex is the layer that
gives hair its strength and elasticity. The individual keratin amino acids that
make up the cortex are held together by 3 different types of bonds, hydrogen
bonds, salt bonds and disulfide bonds. Hydrogen bonds are weak physical bonds
that can easily be broken with water or heat. These bonds typically re-form
once the hair dries or cools. Salt bonds are also weak and easily break when
hair is treated with slightly alkaline or acidic solutions that alter the pH of
the hair.
These bonds
also typically re-form once the pH of the hair is normalized. In addition to
hydrating hair, the rice amino acids in FSS Rice Curl Complex PF help
stabilize both the hydrogen and salt bonds to help strengthen the hair and
maintain curl.
The last
type of bond is much stronger than both hydrogen and salt bonds. Cysteine is a
key amino acid in keratin filaments. Each cysteine amino acid contains a
sulfhydryl group that links together with a sulfhydryl group in an adjacent
cysteine to form disulfide bonds and create a molecule referred to as cystine.
Disulfide bonds give hair its shape. In order to permanently straighten or curl
the hair, these bonds need to be chemically broken. The hair is then
manipulated (either straightened or curled) and is then chemically treated
again to re-form the disulfide bonds. The oxidation of sulfhydryl groups in
cysteine damages the hair and weakens the individual fibers. As naturally curly
hair becomes damaged, it loses its curl as the disulfide bonds break and the
helical structure of keratin unfurls. Protecting the integrity of the disulfide
bonds is perhaps the best way to strengthen the hair.
The tomato
bioferment that is added to our FSS Rice Curl Complex PF contains a
unique bi-enzyme complex that converts serine in the tomato to cysteine in
situ. This can help repair oxidized sulfhydryl groups. Restoring the disulfide
bonds in damaged curly hair strengthens it and improve its structure to
ultimately improve curl. The bi-enzyme complex is also useful in styling aids
for individuals that either curl their hair with a curling iron or geta perm.
Increasing the strength of the hair and repairing the disulfide bonds cannot
only help repair damage caused by curling irons, but also enhances retention of
the newly formed curls. After all the stronger the disulfide bonds, the more
capable the hair is of maintaining its shape. The tomato bioferment can also
help strengthen the newly re-aligned disulfide bonds that are created when
perming. Another benefit of using tomato derived ingredients isthat tomatoes
contain lycopene, an antioxidant that can further protect the hair from
oxidative stress. The last ingredient in our FFS Rice Curl Complex PF is
a blend of keratin amino acids, which acts as a humectant to further hydrate
the hair and help it appear smooth and polished.
INCI Name: Water & Lactobacillus/
Tomato Fruit Ferment Extract &
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract &
Keratin Amino Acids & Acyl
Coenzyme A Desaturase Water
Appearance: Slightly Hazy to Hazy Very
Pale Yellow to Yellow Liquid Soluble/ Miscible: Water Use Levels: 1.0 – 10.0% Suggested Applications: Curl
Retention, Conditioning, Anti-Aging